The length of your blazer is of considerable importance. Too long and you will look as though you are fishing around in your dad’s closet. Too short and you will look as though you robbed your own child’s blazer. Blazer length is all about a balance between your upper and lower body. Your blazer’s length should be no longer than the lower portion of your crotch and no shorter than mid-crotch depending on your height. Those shorter than 5’9” look best in a blazer that comes to the mid-crotch while taller individuals should focus on allowing their blazer to reach the lower crotch region.
There is a common misconception about blazer sleeve length. Some seem to believe that the sleeves should be longer than is necessary. The key in this instance is to know how to position the blazer for proper sizing. First, of course, put your blazer on. Then allow your arms to hang at your sides and bend your wrist out with your palms facing down. The blazer should fall with just ¼ of your undershirt sleeve showing. When purchasing off the rack, a tailor can shorten the sleeves and practically any part of the blazer, but if it is too short, there is little fabric available to be let out and still allow the blazer to look professional. It is best to find one that is too long rather than too short.
Fitting shoulders is relatively easy. The key ingredient here is to simply allow the shoulder to fall naturally. The blazer should maintain a natural seam at the top of the shoulder just as it drops off down the arm. There should be no bunching or gathering at the shoulder area, but a smooth transition from shoulder to arm. Those with narrow shoulders can utilize additional padding to bulk up the area but still maintain a natural look. If you see a dimple at the top of the sleeve your jacket is too big. This is something you’ll want to get right when you’re buying the blazer because fixing this is difficult at the tailor.
Too many men find blazers confining, but that is likely due to the fact that they underestimate their midsection. This is an area that should fit perfectly with the body and buying larger, again, is always better than buying smaller. A blazer that is too small will produce an unsightly X shape when the buttons are fastened. The blazer should fit the body without being too snug when the top button is fastened. We, men, have various body shapes and each one can look great in a blazer, provided the midsection is never under or overestimated.
An ideal blazer fit brings the collar just to the bottom of your shirt resting comfortably against it while it rests against your neck. The blazer should touch the shirt but be devoid of any bunching or stretching. A natural line should always flow from the back of the neck and into the collar of the blazer and there should be no unsightly gaps anywhere in this area.
The label should lay flat without any bowing or gaps in the body. Aesthetically, the lapel should be near the same width as your tie and shirt collar. If you’re going with a modern thinner tie, go with a thinner lapel.
A blazer is never going to feel right if the armhole seems are cutting into your arm. The arms should feel comfortable when resting arms at your sides as well as when reaching all around, but remember, these items are not considered activewear, so certain movements will cause some tension. Too much tension is not only uncomfortable but can bust the seem. Too much fabric in this area is not a good idea either. The armholes of your blazer should be large enough that you do not notice they are there, but not so large that the effect appears messy.
Placement of Buttons
This may seem like an insignificant part of the blazer, but it is actually what makes the blazer look so attractive. The rule here is to allow the top button to lie just above your belly button. Allowing it to fall below the belly button gives an unsightly appearance as it can throw off your body’s natural proportions.
A great fitting blazer will give you a sharp professional appearance. People will take notice. Although body shapes are different, every man can look great in a blazer. Check out our mens’ wardrobe essentials guide for men’s blazers to select the right one for you and get noticed for your smart appearance. And if you’re looking for how a full men’s suit fits check out our Men’s Suit Fit Guide. Whether dating or running out to meetings, a blazer is a perfect accessory to make it all happen.